Archive for October, 2010

Help! My cast iron drains have rusted out!

October 27, 2010

Have you ever been on the roof (either your own, or inspecting/estimating for a new job) and have come across ancient cast iron drains or domes that appear older than time?  You’ve probably seen cracked or missing domes and drain bodies that are rusted out.

If you’re only trying to fix or replace the drains, you have a couple of options.  But first, if the drain itself looks rusted, you may also have a problem with the outlet pipes.

You can check the pipes integrity by plugging the outlet and filling with water to the edge of the drain.  Does the water level stay?  If so, your outlet pipe is ok.  If there is a slow leak, where does the water level remain constant?  This is where your problem with the outlet pipe lies.

OK, back to the drain.  The best solution is to install a retro-fit drain, which will be inserted into the existing outlet pipe after doing some initial prep work.  First you’ll have to grind down any protruding portions of the bowl lip.  Next, you should prime the surface with 2 heavy coats of an asphalt primer.

After the primer dries, set a copper retro fit drain (such as a ProLiner) in a layer of mastic over your base sheet.  For Coppertite brand drains, the outlet has an expanding tape to seal to the outside pipe (in the ProLiner’s case, use of a ProLiner tool kit expands the outlet to form a mechanical metal-to-metal watertight seal).  Apply pressure to the drain flange to get a good seal to the deck.

ProLiner copper Retro-fit drain

If the underside of the drain can be accessed a new drain can be easily installed with the type best suited, cast iron, copper,  or plastic.  It’s always advisable to have a drain with a clamping ring to insure a lasting seal between the drain and the roof membrane


Permanent Horizontal Lifelines

October 21, 2010

Word on the street is OSHA is going to make building owners responsible for permanent fall protection on their buildings, instead of whichever contractor uses the roof.  Needless to say, there is tremendous push back from building owner associations, arguing the burden shouldn’t be on them.  OSHA (may) counter that building owners have the simplest burden and responsibility to provide the lifeline protection, as they’re the singular point of contact.

We can help take the guesswork out of permanent horizontal fall protection.  Introducing Guardian’s Engineered Services Group, combining Guardian’s engineering and installation services with the high quality products of XSPlatforms.  Clients are provided with a professional and cost effective solution unlike anything else offered in today’s fall protection market.

Some of the advantages of the XTS-Impact family of products:

  • Offers the same safety guarantees as traditional anchorage systems.  (CE approved and complies with all relevant safety standards)
  • Easy installation (up to 40 per day), and is mounted on top of existing roofing – no more cutting through insulation or roof covering
  • Can be installed and replaced without any damage to the roof – in case of a fall, the energy of the fall is absorbed by the integrated shock absorber
  • Doesn’t hold up construction schedules – roof can be completed, no need to coordinate all sub-contractors

Closeout Pricing on PlastiCap Nails!

October 8, 2010

Due to a shipping error, we have overstock on the Plasti-Top 1″ plastic cap cartons (2000 count)!  We’ve got to move these to make room for new stock.  While supplies last, you can get these nails below cost.

These are  National Nail’s Plasti-Top 1″ round plastic cap nails.  They’re great for roofing felt, sheathing or house wrap.  The flexible round head eliminates damage to felt and sheathing. It has an annular thread for superior holding.

Plasti-Top felt nail is produced and assembled in the U.S.A. from material made in the U.S.A. and a ring shank nail made in Korea.  Not to be used for Hot Built Up Roofs

If you’re ever looking for deals, search “Closeout” on

Ratings for Fire Extinguishers

October 6, 2010

Have you ever wondered why portable dry chemical fire extinguishers have an A, B or C or BC or ABC letters on the labels?

It has to do with the class of fire that the extinguisher will extinguish.  An “A” rated extinguisher is best used on wood, paper, rubber and plastic fires.  A “B” extinguisher is for flammable liquids, gases and greases.  A “C” extinguisher is for electrical fires.

Normally you will see a “BC” extinguisher, which will work for liquids and electrical.  Our philosophy is that for a couple of pennies more, you can have a TriClass ABC extinguisher that will handle all classes of that potential fire.  We sell four different TriClass extinguishers – 2-1/2 lb, 5 lb, 10 lb, and 20 lb.

10 lb Fire Extinguisher

Roofers should always have an extinguisher on their job site.  Keep one by the kettle and a couple on the roof for those hot jobs.  Any torch down modified jobs should have a couple because you have an open flame on the roof.  And then, those TPO jobs should have a couple on the roof in case of an electrical or debris fire.

We always work toward a safe work environment, but sometimes things happen on the job site.  Be prepared.

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